This weekend, my Spanish friend Gemma invited Sara and myself to Las Fallas. For those of you who don't know about Las Fallas, it is a big, famous celebration held in Valencia, Spain where they light things on fire. At least, that's all I knew about it before this trip. So Friday afternoon, with our bags packed, Sara, myself, and Gemma headed to Gemma's hometown La Solana. La Solana is a tiny pueblo situated in the province made famous by Don Quixote: Castilla la Mancha. After driving two and a half hours, we finally arrived in her town. We were greeted by Gemma's sisters (she has four), her Aunt, her mother, and her father. Like all Spanish mothers, hers rushed us to the dining room for some food and socializing. And after that, we called it an early night and headed to bed.
The next day, Saturday, we woke up bright and early at 6:00am. We got ready, ate a big breakfast, and headed to the bus station. In typical Spanish fashion, we were running late. But managed to catch the bus just in time. For 21 euros, the bus took us to Valencia (a three and a half hour trip) and then picked us up in Valencia at 11:30pm for a return trip home. This was a very good deal considering how far Valencia is from everything. I should also mention that I had yet to travel outside Andalusia. So seeing other provinces and countrysides was exciting. But other than that, the bus ride was uneventful. Around the two hour mark, we stopped at a rest stop for a 45 minute coffee break. I got this sugar packet with my coffee. It had a lovely poem on it about love:
Aprendemos a amor
no cuando encontramos a la
persona perfecta,
sino cuando llegamos a ver de manera
perfecta a una persona imperfecta
We learn to love
not when we find the perfect person,
but when we see the imperfect person
perfectly
Finally we arrived in Valencia. Our first mission was to head to the city center, so we could see some of the Fallas. Without a map, we stopped and asked a lady for directions. She ended up being our own personal tour guide and walked with us to the center while giving explanations to the different things we passed. Eventually, we made it to the city center, where we parted ways with our tour guide. In the center, we started seeing some of the Fallas. The only way to describe these architectural masterpieces is like this: Imagine Pixar building giant sculptures the size of buildings-- that is essentially what the Fallas look like. They're made out of a combination of wood, Styrofoam, and paper. Then they are painted and assembled together to make an incredible piece of art. Each Falla had a lot of detail to it. Most of this detail is making fun of people, places, or things which in turn made the viewer not only marvel at the masterpiece itself, but also smile and enjoy the piece. Along with the Fallas, there was the constant sound of fire crackers and fire works being set off. The children truly enjoy scaring the adults and giving them heart attacks so our 12 hours spent in the city of Valencia were filled with lots of screams and jumping thanks to children throwing these stupid things near to us.
Las Fallas starts in the beginning of March. Each falla is built during this time by a group of people. Throughout the course of March, people from all over the world travel to Valencia to see the fallas being built. The city also builds giant architectural structures made completely out of lights. So aside from looking at each falla, the visitors can also walk through these massive light structures, watch light shows, parades, and of course, party. Las Fallas ends on St. Joseph's Day (aka March 19). On this day, each falla is filled with fireworks and then set on fire. (Pictures below stolen from the internet...)



After, walking around a bit, we decided to get out of the sun and rest in the shade of a restaurant. It was very hot in the sun! And Spaniards are kind of crazy in that even though its 70-80 degrees, you still won't see any of them in flip flops, tank tops, or shorts yet. They continue to wear boots, sneakers, jackets, long sleeve shirts, etc. In the U.S., everyone would be jumping at the chance to wear Spring clothes at the first sign of warm weather. The only part of this that bothers me is not being able to wear my flip flops. I mean, yes I very well could wear my sandals, but then I face the risk of standing out more than I already do being an American. So trying to blend in without dying of heat (kind of-- I still wore a tank top), I wore my flats on this day. And after walking miles around the city of Valencia, my feet have been paying for it for the last few days. Speaking of standing out like an American, the bus driver, in reading the list of people's names making sure everyone was on the bus, struggled with reading Kelly and instead addressed me in front of everyone as the American.
Below are some of the Fallas we saw...
Traditional dress of Valencia
Angry chicken
After resting in the shade, we moved onto finding a spot to watch the parade that the city puts on daily. Unfortunatly, everywhere was completely crowded, so we went back to a place in the shade and basically listened to the parade. Below is what we would have seen if we had been closer...
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The parade was kind of scary. It did not elicit happy feelings like a normal parade. This could probably be attributed to the fact that we couldn't see anything but instead only hear and feel it. And let me tell you, you felt like you were standing in the middle of a war. You see, there was no music like a typical parade; but instead lots and lots of LOUD firecrackers. The ground was shaking, your body was vibrating; it sounded like bombs were continuously being dropped on us. And then to make matters worse, a girl standing next to me fainted. I'm not sure if it was because of the heat or because she was drunk or a combination of both. Thankfully the place we were standing was packed, so people immediately caught her and made some room on the street to lay her down. Meanwhile, one of the girls in the group of people I was travelling with went off to find some police. I'm happy to report that the girl revived and walked away okay. But between that and all of the sounds and vibrations, I can't say I enjoyed this particular parade.
But then there was this man who decided to climb a lamp post...
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After 20 minutes of standing in a war zone, the parade ended, and we moved on to finding Gemma's friends who were participating in a Paella cooking contest. This contest was also like nothing I have ever seen before. As opposed to using tables or grills or stoves, the chefs cooked the paella in the street. They each built little fires and hovering about three inches from the ground, they cooked the paella in the traditional massive paella dishes. For those of you who don't know, Valencia is famous for it's paella. Being a big fan of the rice dish, I expected this to be one of the best paella's I've ever eaten. I, however, was sorely mistaken. Once each participant finished cooking their paella, their fan club/entourage moved inside a restaurant nearby set up with long picnic tables. There, each entourage member helped themselves with forks to the paella. So when our paella was done cooking, we went inside, found ourselves some seats and dug in... only to discover that the paella was incredbily burnt. And the rice that somehow managed to excape being burned was tainted with the burnt taste from the smoke of the fires. But determined to eat some Valencia paella, (or mainly I was just really, really hungry), I suffered through it. Upon seeing our incredibly burnt paella, the other teams felt bad for us, so they offered up their leftovers for us to try. Those were at least yummy!
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Our burnt paella
Oh ya know.... just cooking paella in the middle of the street
It takes two people to carry such a big dish!
So. much. paella.
After eating burnt paella, we continued to walk around the city looking at more fallas. For the really, massive fallas, there was only a little bit of street space to walk on to see them. So beating through the ridiculous crowds, we all walked hand in hand as to not lose each other. After about three hours of walking, we decided to rest a bit at another restaurant. Around 8:00, one of our group members remembered that there was a light show about to start nearby. So we literally ran through the insane crowds to watch the show.
More lights than Christmas in NYC
After touring the rest of the light shows set up by the city, we stumbled upon a DJ who had set up his booth in the middle of one of the streets. We decided to hang out here, and we danced until 10:30 when we had to leave to catch our 11:30 bus. After running around Valencia trying to find the bus station, we finally arrived, sandwiches in hand (priorities), at 11:29. Talk about close call. The three and a half bus ride home was filled with another rest stop and a lot of sleep.
The next day, we woke up reasonably early (10:00am) and got ready for a quick tour of La Solana. Being that the town is smaller than Priego, it was fairly short, and we spent the majority of our time sitting in the Plaza Mayor in the sun drinking wine. Around 2:00 we headed back to Gemma's house where her entire family, myself, and Sara ate a delicious lunch consisting of tortilla de patatas, salad, and paella. I'm happy to report that this paella was not burnt. Wooo. Around 5:00, we embarked on our journey back to Priego.
All in all, Las Fallas was incredible, and I am so happy I had the opportunity to experience it!
Las chicas de Las Fallas