The last 12 days have been a crazy whirlwind. I feel like it was
just April 1 and now it's already my birthday which means April is
almost over. I apologize in advance for this long winded (but
entertaining/informative/witty/somewhat religious) blog post. Let's
start back at the beginning of this 12 day adventure...
My
"spring break" (better known as "Semana Santa" in these parts) started
immediately after school let out at 2:00pm on Thursday. Like in the
movies, I was that teacher that as soon as the dismissal bell rang, I
was leaving the school before most of the students. To be fair, I had a
bus to catch. And still recovering from a god-awful stomach virus, I
was unable to surpass the speed of a snail. So really I mosied out of
school and then mosied home. I should mention that this was my first
day out of the house since being sick and the weather had did a 100
degree turn around from being cold and rainy to sunny and 80. And
trying to be as Spanish as possible, I avoided my normal clothes of a
dress and sandals for this type of weather and was instead wearing
jeans, a tshirt, and shoes making it a tad bit hot. The one thing I
don't like about Spain nor will I ever understand is how they are all
wearing their sweaters still in this hot/beautiful weather. I just want
to wear flip flops dammit.
Sorry I digressed....
After arriving back at my apartment, I forced myself to eat lunch which
consisted of a tiny piece of bread. And then I ventured off with my
suitcase for the bus station. I made it to the bus station feeling like
I had just run a marathon. I don't recommend getting sick before
traveling-- it makes things really difficult. I took the bus to Cordoba
and then successfully made it to my train on time. Before I knew it, I
was in Sevilla where the weather was sunny and 90. I had about enough
walking for the day and graciously accepted a taxi to the hostel. The
hostel I stayed at was called La Banda and it's right in the heart of
Sevilla. If you turn left out of the building you are at the famous
Catedral and if you turn right, you'll find yourself looking across the
river into Triana. I chose to reside in a eight person dorm room. Upon
arriving I had the place to myself. I soon found myself bored and
decided that it would probably be good to once again force myself to eat
something. Obviously I went the nutritional route and opted for ice
cream. I texted my friend from college who is currently living in
Sevilla, and we met up for an ice cream date. After ice cream, we
parted ways, and I found myself completely exhausted and ready for bed
at 9:00pm. Seriously, you don't realize how much energy you need when
it comes to traveling nor how much energy you lose when you're sick.
Unfortunately, bed time in Spain is on average around 12:00pm and my
room was no longer deserted so sleeping was a little rough.
The
next day I woke up early thanks to my returning stomach pain. I
unfortunately was crabby over the noisiness of my roommates the night
before, so I (wrongly) took satisfaction in being that girl awake at
6:00am. I showered, ate breakfast, and dawdled for about 3 hours before
it was finally time to leave for Morocco. The meeting point was about a
10 minute walk from the hostel. It still being early in the day, I
didn't struggle too much with exhaustion.
Side note: I
love traveling to places solo. But I figured Morocco was a bit much,
so I signed up with the only tour group who was reasonably priced and
went over the weekend. Unfortunately, I had been warned in advance by
some past participants that these tour groups typically consisted of
American college students who only wanted to party. And the majority of
the trip was spent on the bus. But I was set on going to Morocco, so I
chose to "look past" all of these things. (Keep your expectations
low, and you can't be disappointed right?) But upon seeing my fellow
travelers, it was difficult not to look past all of the Americans. And
upon finding my seat on the bus, it was difficult to ignore their talks
about partying the night before and all of the other "concerns/problems"
a typical college student has. Oh dear, I'm getting old. It also
seemed like everyone had their group of friends they were traveling
with, and I was clearly the only person flying solo. Thankfully this
came in handy because it allowed me to be the first person to make
friends with a group leader, Gonzalo.
My group leader...
Our
bus ride was two hours. Our first stop was to the very end of Spain to
see the British-governed city of Gibraltar. The bus actually parked in
Spain, and we had to walk across the border into Gibraltar...
1. I've never walked across the border into another country before.
2. The border control is very similiar to airport security.
3. I'm kind of mad they didn't stamp my passport.
The famous "Rock of Gibraltar" from the Spanish coast
Within
five minutes, I was in Gibraltar... well actually I was standing in the
middle of an airport runway. After crossing through border control,
you then had to walk about half a mile across this airport runway.
There were signs everywhere warning about aircraft landings and such and
to walk on this designated path for people. While I wasn't feeling the
securest, I do have to admit that the views were great because both
sides of the runway were surrounded by the ocean. At the end of the
airport runway, we were greeted with a mini bus to take us around the
city of Gibraltar. The city is pretty neat in the fact that it is like
stepping into another world because it is so incredibly British which I
didn't expect. It is divided into two parts-- Old City and New City
with an old stone wall dividing the two parts. New City is very much
your modern day city. But once you pass through the wall, you are
transported back in time to an old British town with lots of charm.
Gibraltar has seen so many wars and battles hence the wall in the first
place and everything being a historical landmark.
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The rock wall
Our
mini bus took us to the edge of the town where we stopped to take in
views of the coast of Spain along with the coast of Morocco. The look
out point had a mix of cultures featuring your typical old fashioned
light house, a mosque, and a war memorial dedicated to the Polish
military.
The Mosque
The African coast in the distance
Lighthouse
We then proceeded to climb the "rock" with our mini bus.
Fun
Fact: Gibraltar is filled with hundreds of rock tunnels. In fact, the
length of all of these tunnels adds up to more than the length of all of
the streets in the city.
The rock tunnels
We passed lots of waterfalls too
We drove through a ton of these (and past some monkeys) before stopping at the famous St. Michael's Caves.
The
caves were breathtakingly beautiful AND massive!! They were naturally
formed over the course of hundreds of years. The caves were created by
rain water that seeped through the ground and ate away at the lime stone
which in turn dissolved the rock creating the beautiful caves. Those
things that look like spikes all around the caves (stalagmites) are
actually formed by the dissolved rock dripping to the ground.
After
the caves, we boarded our mini bus once again to go to the top of the
mountain where the monkey's lived. There are five tribes of wild
monkeys that live in Gibraltar throughout the rock. The monkeys roam
wild and are famous for interacting with humans (aka stealing your food,
phones, sun glasses, etc.) We were warned to not bring any food with
us and only take what we need. Upon aproaching the top, one of the
monkeys jumped onto the roof of our bus and rode along with us!
The monkey on our bus
We
also passed a group of monkeys that had broken into someones car that
had had food in it. They were enjoying a nice picnic feast.
Monkey Hugs!
After
taking selfies with the monkeys, we drove back down the mountain to the
center of Old City for some lunch. I was still dying of stomach pain
and wanted nothing to do with food. But I forced myself to drink a
Sprite for energy since the day was still early. (I know, I know...
I'm really good at making healthy life choices when it comes to
eating.) After lunch, we met as a group and walked back across the
airport runway, and back through border control and boarded our main bus
to head to the ferry. I didn't have a lot of expectations for
Gibraltar, but I left pleasantly surprised by how much I had enjoyed
it. I wish we had spent a little bit more time there since there were
so many things we didn't get the chance to see.
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The
bus ride to the ferry was a short 20 minute ride. Due to our group
size, we were able to bypass the waiting line and board right away.
While boarding, I made friends with another person on the tour who was
from Germany. We chatted for a little bit before parting ways to find
seats. I cozied up in the middle of the boat (away from all windows and
seasickness possibilities). With my feet up on my suitcase and my
Kindle out, I spent the time reading for the hour ride. Before I knew
it, we were pulling into Morocco! We all departed the ferry and boarded
our waiting busses. The part of Morocco we embarked on was actually
governed by Spain. So technically we were in Africa but not quite in
Morocco yet. We had to cross border control again and this took
FOREVER. It was also pure chaos since you had cars everywhere and
people trying to walk across. It was also illegal to take any photos
during our time spent driving through the mile long control. But from
my window, I watched people who had been stopped from crossing into
Morocco hop fences, run away, etc. There were also a ton of woman
carrying giant packages on their backs and heads. I'm not exaggerating
when I say that the entire control was a mile long. I don't know how
these women did it. After about an hour and a half we were finally in
Morocco! I was ready for camels, deserts, palm trees....
Instead
I was greeted with mountains and green scenery like I was in Ireland.
Our bus drove for about 20 minutes (we passed the infamous Casablanca!)
before we reached the city of Tangier. This city has been governed by 9
different nations over the course of time. Most recently by France.
So most of the signs were actually in French here. And throughout the
city, the streets were designed like one of the nations that had
governed it. So we were able to see Spanish influence, French, British,
etc. By the time we reached the hotel is was pretty late. We were
given our roommate assignments and then told to meet at the hotel
restaurant for dinner. My roommates were Lucy, a girl from Manchester,
England, and Maya, from the U.S. As for dinner... I expected some
Moroccan cuisine... they ended up serving us fish and chips... really??
Fast
forward to the next day where we had a bright and early wake up call
from the front desk. I got to sleep in this beauty the night before.
I
was able to sprawl in any direction I wanted! We enjoyed a carb-filled
breakfast and then went on the tour of the city. Almost all of the
people living in Morocco are practicing Muslims. They pray five times a
day, and we were able to hear the church prayers and bells over a
loudspeaker at sunset each day. We also went past the MASSIVE palace
the King lives in. Finally, we arrived at a look out point. Here, we
were able to see the Spanish coastline and where the Mediterranean Sea
meets the Atlantic Ocean. After socializing with some donkey's we
boarded the bus to head to the beach where we got the chance to ride
CAMELS!! To get to the beach, we had to walk down all of these
stairs...
But once there, we got to interact with baby camels and ride the older ones.
Camel cigarettes anyone?
This little guy was only 2 weeks old!
The
camels that we were riding were imported from another country. The
typical camels in Africa only have one hump whereas these had two. The
camel ride was nothing like riding a horse. It was EXTREMELY bumpy. It
was impossible to look graceful on them. And since you "board" them
while they're sitting on the ground, it feels like they're trying to
throw you off when standing up since you lean so far forward and then so
far backwards. Our ride also involved the camels running instead of
your typical slow walk. And the guides we had were hilarious. They ran
alongside the camels and kept shouting things like "Oh my God!" or
"We've lost one!". They must be in excellent shape since there were
only five camels and about 65 of us.
Look Ma! I'm sitting on the camel!
Pure fear while the camel stands up...
And this is the part where my head conked the camel's head...
Wooo finally up and standing
Our crazy camel guide
After
my ride, I had to wait for the rest of the group to go. Unfortunately
we couldn't enjoy the actual beach because it was freezing and windy.
After everyone had finished, we all posed for pictures with the
camels.
The whole group!
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I
was one of the last ones to go. As I was getting up to climb back to
the top of the beach, one the camel guide guys picked me up and put me
on a camel. He did the same with four other girls. I assumed this was
for another picture until he started leading us in the opposite
direction of everyone else. And then I saw our guide running back
towards us and frantically yelling, "WAIT, they need to come with us!!"
I was convinced that we had been kidnapped, and we were being lead down
the beach on camels. Then the guide let go of the rope that he was
using to lead the camels. Yep. The camels were running aimlessly. I
had no rope to hold onto; only the camel hump. I was convinced I was
taking my last breath on the beach on a camel. (That's actually not a
terrible way to go when you think about it.) Soon the camels were
running up a hill/basically a mountain. And then we were on a road and
they were still just walking aimlessly. Eventually the guide showed up
again and took the rope. And then I saw our bus! And people! The camels
had brought us back to the bus so we didn't have to walk up the giant
hill!
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The face of pure relief...
Once
on the bus, my nerves settled back down. (I really was convinced I was
going to die.) Our next destination was the city of Chefchauen-- the
famous blue city. It was lunch time when we arrived to the city so our
first stop was a typical Moroccan restaurant.
Glimpses of the city on our walk to the restaurant
For
lunch they served some sort of chicken dish. And vegetarians got a
vegetable curry. Still dying of stomach pain, I only nibbled on my
veggie plate. For dessert, they served us typical Moroccan Tea. It was
delicious!! The restaurant itself was beautiful. And I sat with two
girls from Italy, two girls from England and another girl from
Slovenia.
**I was so happy to see that my the biases I
had made were wrong. This group of people was incredibly diverse and
from all over Europe. We had Spaniards, people from Holland, Canada,
etic.**
After lunch, we met our guide. He was this
teensy, tiny old man (80 years old) with a typical raspy old man voice.
He also happened to be hilarious!!
Our guide
He
told us all about the history of the city. The reason the walls are
painted blue is because it stops mosquitoes. And when the street itself
is painted blue, it signifies a dead end. This city still uses the
public baths as opposed to bathing at home. The men and the women have
their own designated time to go to the baths and they visit them every
day. The women also do their laundry in the rivers near the city. They
actually prefer this over a washing machine because it allows them to
socialize. There is no partying or drinking alcohol in Morocco. And
the laws/rules for women are still very old fashioned and restrictive.
Our guide eventually brought us to a tapestry store where we got the
chance to see the famous Moroccon rugs and tapestries. After the owner
spoke to us about making the tapestries, we were able to roam around and
even visit the looms.
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Sidenote:
the people of Morocco speak several different languages so
communicating with them is surprisingly easy. They speak: English,
French, Spanish, and Arabic. When I was watching the man on the loom
above, it was just me in the room so he explained the process to me and
then made me a bracelet from the yarn they use! Moroccans are some of
the nicest people I have ever met!
After this, we continued our tour throughout the city.
Typical Moroccan spices
Dead end street
The tour guide ever
Street Art
Tree Art
The doors are incredibly small. This forces the person entering to bow their head which is a sign of prayer and respect.
The Tapestry store sign
About
an hour later, we had free time to walk around. I joined my German
friend from the previous day, a boy from Poland, and a group of three
others from Holland. We all walked around the back streets of
Chefchauen and practiced our bartering skills with the different
merchants. There is no set price when shopping. You are expected to
negotiate for a better price. After a lovely day in Chefchauen, we
boarded our bus to drive to the city of Tangier. Once we arrived to our
hotel, we had two hours of free time before meeting back at the bus to
head to the special Moroccan dinner and show. While my face looks happy
in all of the pictures, I was still dying of stomach pain. And this
night was the height of it. I curled up in a ball in my bed until the
next day. There was just no way for me to go to the dinner. But I
heard it was really good thanks to the performers.
The
next day, we had another early wake up call. I forced myself out of
bed and downstairs to attempt to eat some breakfast. I nibbled on
chocolate cereal flakes for energy purposes. We rode the bus to the
center of Tangier which is the oldest part of the city. Morocco is not a
third world country. But it is definitely the most socially behind
country I've ever visited. The old part of the city was directly out of
a movie. The streets were tiny and people were selling things all
along them. Chickens were wandering free along with dirty cats and
dogs. The street itself was incredibly dirty. And the smells of
garbage, fish, and other foods was overwhelming. Within 10 minutes of
walking these narrow, dank streets crowded with people and animals, I
had had enough. (And also I was afraid of throwing up), so I told my
guide that I couldn't do the walking tour. He told our new Moroccan
guide who was giving us the tour of the city. This man then flagged
down another random man walking the streets dressed in white pants,
sunglasses, and a pink shirt. Pink shirt man then told me to follow him
through a labyrinth of narrow city streets and eventually we ended up
at a pharmacy. In the pharmacy, the pharmacist asked me about my
symptoms. He then disappeared and reappeared with what looked like a
spoonful of cinnamon (cinnamon challenge anyone?). He then, without
asking, just stuffed the giant spoonful in my mouth! I was so overcome
with eating this mystery dry powder, while also wondering what I had
just ingested that I started choking. Now I was causing quite the scene
because brown powder was flying out of my mouth, and I had no more
water left in my water bottle and you can't drink tap water in Morocco.
The pink shirt man ran out and brought me a new bottle of water which
eventually soothed my burning lungs. I later found out that I had
consumed about 2 tablespoonfuls of Cumin. Meanwhile, while I had been
choking, the other group from our trip entered the pharmacy. The
pharmacist who had stuffed the Cumin in my mouth then proceeded to give a
talk about all of the different cosmetics, spices, and things famous in
Morocco. I learned about Moroccan oil, rose hip, remedies to stop
motion sickness, green lipstick, Moroccan eyeliner, and many other
things. He even let us try samples of each thing. At the end of his
spiel, we were allowed to purchase the different items at a discounted
price. I had selected a few things for myself. The main leader of our
entire trip offered to take my bag to the front of the line and pay so I
could rest. He came back with my bag stuffed with extra things and all
of my money. I don't know if he paid or if I had been given a free
goodie bag by the pharmacist thanks to my choking fiasco but it was
super nice (and a $60 value)! While the other group left, I continued
to hang out in the pharmacy. The pharmacist explained more about the
different spices that covered his walls, and he gave me his wifi
password! Not a big deal until you've been in Morocco without wifi for
days. Eventually my group showed up, and I listened to the pharmacist's
spiel again. (Still just as interesting.) By the time he was finished
and everyone had completed their shopping, it was time for me to say
farewell to my new friend. My group then headed back to the bus where
we had to continue our journey back to Spain.
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The god-awful cumin I ingested
All of the different natural elements
The prettiest pharmacy I had ever been to
My pharmacist friend
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The
rest of the trip was uneventful. We were fed sandwiches, passed
through border control again, took the ferry, and then drove until we
reached Sevilla. Once in Sevilla, I was still dying. But luckily I was
only a short 10 minute walk away from my hostel where I could spend the
rest of my night in bed. Wrong. Wrong. Very, very wrong. Semana Santa
had started. Which meant that the streets were filled with people
making walking difficult and walking with a suitcase impossible. My ten
minute walk took about 30 minutes. And then there was a procession
right in front of my hostel! Literally I could see the door to the
hostel but couldn't cross the street because of the procession. God was
laughing at me. I was incredibly cranky. So I stood staring at the
hostel doors for an hour while I waited for the procession to finish.
The only cool thing about this procession was that when the Virgin
walked by, the entire street went dead silent. Other than that, I was not in the mood.
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The Virgin Mary just casually being carried in front of my hostel
When
I got inside, I was somewhat hungry because I had only eaten some
chocolate cereal and Cumin. So I went to the roof of the hostel to try
some of the dinner they specially prepare each night. My expectations
were low since hostel food is never very good. But I was surprised with
grilled eggplant sliced up with mozzarella cheese and tomato with a
side of rice and salad. The eggplant dish was SO good! I just wish I
could have eaten more than four bites of it. I also don't know why,
maybe it was because I had suffered through the procession, but the
hostel had upgraded me to a better room for free. This was kind of
awesome because it had a bathroom and only three other beds in it. My
roommates were from Ecuador and Saudi Arabia.
The view of the Catedral and more processions from the roof of the hostel
The
next day, I once again woke up early. I was afraid of another
procession happening which would cause me to miss my train to Malaga.
Luckily this was not the case, and I showed up to the station an hour
and a half early. This free time allowed me to eat some tostada while
using the free wifi. My train ride was quiet. I arrived and checked
into my hostel and then proceeded to the city center for some shopping.
When I was riding the camels, I had been sitting on a seat with a
raised screw. The screw had ripped my pants leading to this brief but
necessary shopping trip. After I enjoyed another nutritional lunch of
ice cream. And then I headed to the meeting spot where there was
supposed to be a free walking tour of the city. Five minutes passed
by. Ten minutes passed. And eventually 20 minutes passed with no one
showing up to lead the tour. I was waiting with two other girls who
happened to also be from New Jersey. Because of Semana Santa
processions (why I oughta...) we assumed that the tour had been
cancelled. We parted ways, and I headed back to the hostel where I
waited for Sara so we could meet up. Luckily we had made plans earlier
to meet up at the Cathedral because as soon as the processions started,
cell service went down. There were just so many people that none of the
phones would work. So we blindly met each other hoping the other would
show (which thankfully we both did). We then went off to have tapas
and drinks. Two girls from Sara's hostel joined us. One was from
Canada and the other was from Germany. We had successfully avoided all
processions for most of the night. But then as we were sitting outside
at a restaurant in this tiny back street, people started pouring in.
And before we knew it, a procession was walking right by our table.
A brief summary on the differences between Spain and the USA on Easter:
Spain:
No Easter Bunny
No Easter Egg Hunts
They still use hard boiled eggs but differently than us
They don't participate in Lent
Semana Santa is the week leading up to Easter
In Andalusia, each city/town has a series of processions daily that last from the afternoon until 2:00/3:00am
The processions always involve a Jesus figure followed by a Virgin Mary figure
It takes about 50-200 men to carry these giant statues.
The processions involve several marching bands
They've been practicing all of this since I first came to Spain in August
Good Friday is the biggest day celebrated here
The crowds for Semana Santa are comparable to the St. Patrick's Day
Parade or the Thanksgiving Day Parade in NYC... but imagine it happening
every. single. day.
They set up enormous bleachers and thousands of seats throughout the streets. People pay a ton of money to sit in them.
They wear these costumes...
Jesus
Mary
To
contrary belief, these are not Klu Klux Clan costumes. They are in
fact wearing the religious apparel for each procession. However, I
still got goosebumps from watching them walk by our table with the
candles. It was just plain eerie. And it didn't help that there were
hundreds of them everywhere! Once the procession had finished near us,
we were able to vacate the scene. We each ventured to our designated
hostel. Upon arriving to my hostel, I was surprised to see a girl
sleeping in my bed. All of my things had been moved to the bunk above.
However, she had failed to move my pajamas and was now sleeping on
them... because why not. Without another pair of pajamas and also
cranky at the fact that she had the audacity to move my things and then
sleep in my already slept in bed, I woke her up and asked her to move.
She grumpily conceded.
The next day was spent
at the beach away from any and all processions and crowds. We enjoyed a
lovely breakfast on the port. The weather was perfect.
After
leaving the beach at an early 7:30pm, we headed to our hostels to
shower. We later met (with our useless phones since they weren't
working again) at one of our favorite restaurants: Gorki. I visited
this place back in February and had the most delicious vegetable
lasagna. We ordered that once again along with a cheese dish. We later
learned that the secret behind the delicious lasagna was actually the
spinach sauce they put on top. After our dinner, we stumbled upon a
side street with typical Malaga wine and flamenco. The bartender let us
sample each variety of wine which was great. And then right next to us
men started singing flamenco. It was awesome!
After
flamenco, we navigated our way through the processions back to our
hostels. I arrived back to an empty bed, thank goodness.
The
next day was spent very similarly: we had breakfast along the bay at
the port, spent the day at the beach, went back and showered, and then
met up again for tapas. I had also managed to fit in a visit to the
famous Malaga Cathedral. It was the first day where my stomach pain was
manageable, so I figured why not. The Cathedral was enormous and
beautiful. It was designed differently than most of the others that I
had seen in Spain. There was also a service going on which allowed me
to enjoy the choir and music during my visit. At my hostel, when
showering, I met a new, normal--she doesn't sleep in other people's
beds, girl from Spain. She only spoke Spanish, so my skills were tested
after not using the language for about a week. She joined Sara and
myself for tapas that night. Once again the processions had now crossed
our usual meeting spot preventing us from going there, so without
working phones, Sara and I managed to stumble upon each other walking
the streets. We went to a cheese tapa bar for dinner. The cheese was
amazing! My two days in the sun had finally caught up with me and my
sunburn was extremely uncomfortable. So I parted ways with the girls
early on in the night.
Thursday was our day to say
goodbye to Malaga and head back to Priego. Our bus wasn't until 4:30 in
the afternoon, so we had the freedom to spend our morning however we
liked. I wanted to visit the Picasso Museum which Sara had already
seen. I ventured my way there after breakfast and was thrilled to see
that I had beat the crowds. I'm not a big fan of Picasso, but this
museum helped me understand his perspective and viewpoints when it came
to painting. This in turn led me to appreciate his paintings more.
The outside wall of the Museum... no photos allowed inside
After the museum, I headed to the Roman Amphitheater. Spain has a ton of
Roman buildings and artifacts and in the heart of Malaga is an
original amphitheater still intact. However, before actually arriving to
see the ruins, I was stopped by another procession. This one was
different from the others because it only involved the military.
Roman Amphitheater
More crazy costumes
They even make them into desserts!
The
rest of the day was spent relaxing. Sara and I had a lunch consisting
of only the spinach sauce from our favorite restaurant. After that we took a bus to Lucena, and her parents drove us the rest of the way back to Priego.
Priego Semana Santa adventures to be continued manana...
Tour company in Morocco was We Love Spain. They come highly recommended!
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